Driving north, the countryside reminded us a lot of Maryland and Virginia near the mountains. The ocean views were spectacular. En route, we visited the Kauri Museum to learn about New Zealand's most ancient trees. We then headed to Whangarei Falls (pronounced with an "F"), New Zealand's most photographed waterfall.

We ended up in Paihia, The Bay of Islands. We normally would have taken time to spend a week diving, but we had come in November, their early spring, and the water was still quite cold. The best diving is out at Poor Knights Islands, but we felt three weeks of lugging all our dive gear and underwater photo equipment around the country would just be too much trouble for just a few days diving. We thought it best to see the country first and come back to dive another day.

In Paihia, we stayed at the Chalet Romantica, a beautiful B&B on the hill overlooking the Bay of Islands. Run by a personable Swiss couple, Inge and Ed, Chalet Romantica provided spacious rooms with views, indoor hot tub and pool and exquisite breakfasts. They have a small herd of goats grazing in the pasture for the amusement of the guests.

We spent the next few days touring the Bay of Islands by boat, observing dolphins, stopping at islands to picnic, hiking amongst sheep, and photographing incredible vistas. Nearby, we visited the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, where in 1840 the Maori and British signed the treaty creating the modern New Zealand. The original treaty can be seen on display along with a huge Maori war canoe (Wake), the kind used by the Maori to reach New Zealand.

Next we headed to the Waipahu Forest, home to a Kauri forest and Tane Mahuta, the oldest, over 2000 years old, and biggest living Kauri Tree!

Driving south, we visited Waitomo, New Zealand's largest cave network. The attraction there is the opportunity to see the Glow Worms, an insect larvae that glows in the dark to attract food. Drifting on a boat through the watery caves, in the total darkness and silence, viewing what appeared to be galaxies on the cave ceiling was quite an experience. Unfortunately, no flash photography was allowed. There is also another option to cave tube for several hours, but the 50F water convinced us to come back and do that in their summer months.

New Zealand's roads are, for the most part, 2 lane, very well maintained and have little traffic. All the bridges are one lane and there never seems to be a problem with traffic. The signage is wonderful and clear. Because of all the twists and turns, average speed takes a hit and it will take you twice as long as you think it should to cover a specific distance. In addition, the scenery is so beautiful, you are stopping constantly. The "karma" of the country is very different. People are laid back, courteous, have a good sense of humor, and are egalitarian. You feel very safe out in the remote areas. You can rent an RV and camp anywhere, except where there are signs prohibiting it. Being so far removed from the rest of the world gives them a sense of peace and safety, a feeling we have not had in a long time. Throughout New Zealand, we were amazed to see not one piece of trash along the roads or trails (called tracks). It is engrained in even young children not to disrespect their home and land.

We headed east to Rotorua, a center of Maori culture and geothermal activity. We stayed at The Redwoods B&B, located within walking distance of the Redwood Forest. It was thrilling to take a spiritual hike amongst the huge trees. Vivian, our host, has two beautiful spacious rooms attached to her house, and the use of a living/dining area. She serves a hearty and healthy breakfast. Redwoods B&B is close to all the attractions in Rotorua.

We attended a Maori "Hangi" (banquet) and "Haki" (native dance) that night at the Mitai Maori Village. The food is cooked underground, allowing the geothermal heat to do the work. The next day, we walked around Te Puia with it's geysers and thermal pools. We also visited the Living Maori Village. This was an very interesting village with guided tours about Maori life and customs. This is a village where people actually live, it is not a tourist attraction as such. Centered around thermal pools, the steam and sulfur smell was prevalent, in fact it permeated all of Roturua. Heading south to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland, we hiked areas of stunning beauty and significant geothermal activity.

We continued south to Huka Falls, where jet boating is a popular pastime. Nearby, Lake Taupo is New Zealand's largest lake. As you hike around the lake you are treated to vistas of New Zealand's 3 most active volcanoes - Mt Doom, Tongariro, and Ruapehu.